Freedom Reborn Archive

Animated Textures in 3dMAX

Seeing as beyonder's original post is missing now...I'll repost what he had posted (mainly so Volsung can find it now...:P).  Also included are Valander's comments...mainly becasue they seem important.

Beyonder: I'm posting this tutorial from memory so I may of left a step out.  Also this was done using max 4.2 so it maybe different

with later versions.  I have made screenshots to go with the tutorial I made at home last night but my internet died last night on me  .

1.  First create the tgas you want as the animated sequence.
    male_basic_01.tga
    male_basic_02.tga
    male_basic_03.tga

2.  Next open up max and goto the utilities tab.

3.  Click on \"More...\" button.

4.  Select IFL Manager from the list.

5.  Click on the \"Select...\" button.

6.  From the open dialog choose the first tga in the sequence (male_basic_01.tga) and click open.

7.  Change Start: to 0 if its not already.
    For this example change End: to 2 (this basically means 2 more tgas in the sequence)
    nth:  the frames it will skip in the sequence.  Lets say you had this set to 2 then it would skip every
    2 tgas in the sequence.  For this tutorial leave it at 1.
    Multiplier: is how many frames before it will goto the next tga in the sequence.  Leave at 1 for now.

    You can click on the \"Edit...\" button to change the tgas you want in the list if you wanted to.

8.  Click on the \"Create...\" button.  Give the file a name in this tutorial name it male_basic.ifl.

9.  Now goto the material editor (Click \"M\" on the keyboard).

10. Create a new material and select the NetImmerse shader.

11. Scroll down and click on the \"None\" button across from Base.

12. In the open dialog change the file type to ifl and select the male_basic.ifl file.  Click open.

13. Drag the material to your mesh, particle, or object and export code.  This should also work on meshes with multiple materials. 



Valander: I should note two things here, after some experimentation:

1 ) The IFL file at the time of exporting is PERMANENT. No changes after the fact will change the number of frames, their duration, or their order.

2 ) The mesh will only accept one set of skins - \"Standard\". No others will show up.




recent experiment showed me something new about animated skin meshes and alternate skins for them:

1 ) Any part of the mesh actively using an animated skin will always use the Standard skin for the animated parts.

2 ) HOWEVER, any part of the mesh using 'ordinary' skins CAN use alternate skins.

For example, I recently released a Helicopter mesh. The rotors and side rotor use an animated skin so that they constantly rotate.

However, the body of the helicopter uses a 'normal' skin setup.

Say I decide to make a news chopper skin for it. The body of the helicopter and all of its details will use the news chopper skin, but if I try to change the rotor skins, say to a two-rotor setup, the rotors will still use the three rotor default in the Standard folder.

IOW, as long as that part of the skin isn't animated, it will function normally and accept alternate skins normally.       

There used to be a sticky thread before the Big Wipe that various meshers shared their tricks and tips, like what DJ posted above.

To keep the thread neat and easy to use, please post the T 'N T's here.

P.S. DJ, if you'd rather me not do this with your post, I'll fix it back and start a new one, just read it and thought this would make for a good start.

Below is a repost of Grenadier's UV mapping tutorial.  Enjoy! :)

ow_tiobe_sb
Phantom Bunburyist and You Know the Rest


There are several ways to make a wiremap for a mesh, but for me,
these are the tools that I use and the method I use to make them.
I like doing it this way because it gives me the control I want.

Here are the tools we will be using:

3DMax 4.2
Objects made in 3DMax 4.2
Texporter (http://phantombunburyist.freedomforceforever.com/downloads/Texporter3_4.zip):  Freeware and works for 3Dmax 4.2 and 5 
Adobe Photoshop v6

Here's my method.  I've divided into three parts.



1. Make an object.  For this exercise, we'll create a helmet.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/ow_tiobe_sb/texporter_tutorial/image002.jpg) (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/ow_tiobe_sb/texporter_tutorial/image004.jpg)
In this series of pics, we'll unwrap the map with the result being a very cluttered map.
We will now be going in to fix it.

2.  Now that we have an object, I choose to map it using the side view.
I select half the polygons to initially map as seen in the pic.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/ow_tiobe_sb/texporter_tutorial/image008.jpg)

3.  I then choose  UVW Map from the modifier stack and adjust my map.
For this situation I choose to use Planar mapping and I use the Y
alignment to get a frontal rendering of the object. Notice the orange line.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/ow_tiobe_sb/texporter_tutorial/image010.jpg) (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/ow_tiobe_sb/texporter_tutorial/image012.jpg)

4. Unwrap the object and this is how it should look.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/ow_tiobe_sb/texporter_tutorial/image014.jpg) (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/ow_tiobe_sb/texporter_tutorial/image016.jpg)

5. Select the vertices and resize the object within the boxed area.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/ow_tiobe_sb/texporter_tutorial/image018.jpg) (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/ow_tiobe_sb/texporter_tutorial/image020.jpg)

6. Collapse the stack.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/ow_tiobe_sb/texporter_tutorial/image022.jpg) (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/ow_tiobe_sb/texporter_tutorial/image024.jpg)

7. Select Polygons and Invert your selection at the Edit toolbar.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/ow_tiobe_sb/texporter_tutorial/image025.jpg) (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/ow_tiobe_sb/texporter_tutorial/image027.jpg) (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/ow_tiobe_sb/texporter_tutorial/image029.jpg)

8. Again,  UVW Map the polygons using planar in the Y alignment.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/ow_tiobe_sb/texporter_tutorial/image031.jpg) (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/ow_tiobe_sb/texporter_tutorial/image033.jpg)

9. When unwrapped the you should see the following.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/ow_tiobe_sb/texporter_tutorial/image035.jpg)
Resize and adjust the vertices.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/ow_tiobe_sb/texporter_tutorial/image036.jpg) (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/ow_tiobe_sb/texporter_tutorial/image038.jpg)

Collapse the stack.

(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/ow_tiobe_sb/texporter_tutorial/image039.jpg)

10. UVW Unwrap the object and you should see something like this.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/ow_tiobe_sb/texporter_tutorial/image041.jpg)
Adjust and resize the vertices to get something like below.
Try to keep your maps neat and orderly.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/ow_tiobe_sb/texporter_tutorial/image043.jpg)
You have just Finished the First step to making a map.


1.  Now that you've mapped you're first object, you want to include it in with an
existing object's map.  For this exercise we'll add the wire map to an existing
object's wiremap.  We have the new objects map and the cape.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/ow_tiobe_sb/texporter_tutorial/image044.jpg) (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/ow_tiobe_sb/texporter_tutorial/image046.jpg)
We can do this several ways, but for this exercise we'll do it my way. 
Select the vertices, resize, and align them to the cape.  Then select all
the vertices and bring the entire map down.  Looking at the new object
and the cape, you don't want the vertices to intersect.
It should look like this below.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/ow_tiobe_sb/texporter_tutorial/image048.jpg)
Remember, we're planning ahead for when we create a single wiremap.
Give yourself as much space, and yet still try to fit everything
you want within the boundaries you have.


1. Now comes the good stuff.  You will need Texporter installed in the proper location for this to work.

2. Once you have installed Texporter, Open it from the Utilities toolset. (Note: you may need to click on "More" to find it.)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/ow_tiobe_sb/texporter_tutorial/image050.jpg)

3. Here's the setting I use.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/ow_tiobe_sb/texporter_tutorial/image052.jpg)

4.  Click and highlight the Pick Object box.
Click an object that has been mapped.  You should see something like this.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/ow_tiobe_sb/texporter_tutorial/image054.jpg)
Save the image to a file. (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/ow_tiobe_sb/texporter_tutorial/image056.jpg)
Give it any name you want, and save it as a tga file.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/ow_tiobe_sb/texporter_tutorial/image058.jpg) (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/ow_tiobe_sb/texporter_tutorial/image060.jpg)

5. Repeat step 4 with all the objects that you mapped. Until you have something similar.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/ow_tiobe_sb/texporter_tutorial/image061.jpg) (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/ow_tiobe_sb/texporter_tutorial/image063.jpg)
These are the files that you will see in Adobe Photoshop.
Both should be tga files 512x512 in size.

6. Go into Photoshop and open both files.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/ow_tiobe_sb/texporter_tutorial/image065.jpg)

7.  Select 1.tga and press  Ctrl+A (select all),  Ctrl+C (Copy), Close 1.tga file,
Select 2.tga and press Ctrl+V ( Paste ).
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/ow_tiobe_sb/texporter_tutorial/image067.jpg)
you should see 1.tag image overlap 2.tga image and
you should have two layers.   Drop the opacity of layer
one to 30% and you should see both images with one image being very dim.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/ow_tiobe_sb/texporter_tutorial/image069.jpg)

8. Go to Layer and flatten the image.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/ow_tiobe_sb/texporter_tutorial/image071.jpg)

9. Go to Image and adjust the levels
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/ow_tiobe_sb/texporter_tutorial/image073.jpg)

10. Move the bar to the far left brightening the dim images.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/ow_tiobe_sb/texporter_tutorial/image075.jpg)

11. This is the end result:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/ow_tiobe_sb/texporter_tutorial/image077.jpg)

Save the file giving it  an appropriate name and are you done ?
No.  Now that you have a map made, you need to apply colors
and textures and then save it again under a different name.
Now you have a skin.  Go back to you mesh in 3Dmax
and apply that skin to the appropriate object.
Hopefully this helps get rid of the mystery.

- Joe Javellana  aka  Grenadier

*reserving space*
I will write up some techniques I have found usefull when time allows :)

I whipped up a quick, simplistic NIFgmax tutorial for static gmax meshing.  The tutorial focuses on the process--from modelling a simple mesh, to material editing, to exporting the final NIF--and does not focus on the finer skills of 3D modelling in gmax.  That tutorial will arrive at a later time when I've the leisure to produce it.  For now, as a brief introduction to how this might work, I present to you "NIFgmax Meshing for Freedom Force: A Quick Tutorial." (http://phantombunburyist.freedomforceforever.com/NIFgmax_simple_tutorial/)

Enjoy!

EDIT: I added an installation tutorial for NIFSkope and NIFTools plug-ins here (http://phantombunburyist.freedomforceforever.com/NIFgmax_simple_tutorial/installation_tut/index.html).

ow_tiobe_sb
Phantom Bunburyist and The Prat in the Hat

Further meshing tricks, specifically on how to model a critter using reference images:

http://media.pc.gamespy.com/media/682/682114/vids_1.html

Specifically, the lower right video, "GC 2006: Dino Creation"

Admittedly, to use it as advice and a guidelines, you need to know a few things about MAX, it's not for beginners, and it doesn''t show anything about the rigging. However, it is a VERY good guide to workflow.

Many clever objects can be meshed quickly and simply using the spline modelling options available to the user of 3ds max or gmax.  The following tutorial will work in both applications, but I have included screen captures from gmax to encourage new users to give it a go.  While the focus of this tutorial will be on modelling techniques, I have taken the opportunity to demonstrate some of the more general features of gmax that new users might find useful in the future.  WARNING: Many quasi-large pics below.
[spoiler]
Let's model The Phantom Bunburyist's top hat. :)

Part I: Setting Up the Units of Measurement

When meshing for Freedom Force, 'tis important to use the units of measurement that are to scale with the world of the game engine.  A few settings must be configured before we begin.

1. In the gmax menu bar, left-click on "Customize" and choose "Units Setup" from the menu,
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/ow_tiobe_sb/gmax_spline_modelling_tutorial/pic1.jpg)

2. In the "Units Setup" window, tick the radio button next to "Metric" and select "Meters" from the drop-down menu.  Click on "OK."
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/ow_tiobe_sb/gmax_spline_modelling_tutorial/pic2.jpg)

3. Return to the gmax menu bar and left-click on "Customize" and choose "Preferences" from the menu.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/ow_tiobe_sb/gmax_spline_modelling_tutorial/pic3.jpg)

4. In the "Preference Settings" window, input "10" next to "1 Unit=" in the "System Unit Scale" field and choose "Centimeters" as the unit from the drop-down menu. Click on "OK."
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/ow_tiobe_sb/gmax_spline_modelling_tutorial/pic4.jpg)

Part II: Three Ellipses

Let's begin the modelling tutorial.  In this tutorial, we will use three simple splines to construct a much more complex object.

1. Left-click on the "Create" tab in the command window.  Click on the "Shapes" icon and select "Ellipse" under the "Splines" objects.  If you prefer to create shapes using a click-and-drag method beginning at the shape's center, make certain that you tick the radio button next to "Center" under "Creation Method."
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/ow_tiobe_sb/gmax_spline_modelling_tutorial/pic5.jpg)

2. Right-click in the "Top" viewport, center the creation gizmo at coordinates [0,0], and then left-click and drag the gizmo outward to generate an ellipse.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/ow_tiobe_sb/gmax_spline_modelling_tutorial/pic6.jpg)

3. Repeat this process to create the second ellipse.  Align the maximum eccentricity of this second ellipse with the Y-axis instead of the X-axis.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/ow_tiobe_sb/gmax_spline_modelling_tutorial/pic7.jpg)

4. With "Ellipse02" still selected, click on "Edit" on the menu bar and select "Clone" from the menu (*dodges an exploding hare tossed by a H.A.M.S.T.E.R. agent*).
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/ow_tiobe_sb/gmax_spline_modelling_tutorial/pic8.jpg)

5. In the "Clone Options" window, tick the radio button next to "Copy," and then click on "OK."  This will create "Ellipse03."
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/ow_tiobe_sb/gmax_spline_modelling_tutorial/pic9.jpg)

6. With "Ellipse03" selected, click on the "Select and Uniform Scale" tool icon on the icon bar at the top of the quad viewport.  With this tool, we will increase the size of "Ellipse03."
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/ow_tiobe_sb/gmax_spline_modelling_tutorial/pic10.jpg)

7. Center the scale gizmo at coordinates [0,0] and left-click and drag the gizmo outward to rescale "Ellipse03."
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/ow_tiobe_sb/gmax_spline_modelling_tutorial/pic11.jpg)

Part III: Repositioning and Attaching the Ellipses

1. With "Ellipse03" still selected, click on the "Select and Move" tool icon on the icon bar at the top of the quad viewport.  With this tool, we will reposition "Ellipse03" to serve as the top of the hat.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/ow_tiobe_sb/gmax_spline_modelling_tutorial/pic12.jpg)

2. Before moving "Ellipse03" into position, click on the "Y" icon on the icon bar to confine the ellipse's movement to the Y-axis in the "Front" viewport.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/ow_tiobe_sb/gmax_spline_modelling_tutorial/pic13.jpg)

3. Right-click in the "Front" viewport, and then position the move gizmo over "Ellipse03" (which should appear in its paper-thin profile).  Left-click and drag "Ellipse03" upward and release the mouse button to reposition this shape.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/ow_tiobe_sb/gmax_spline_modelling_tutorial/pic14.jpg)

4. Stroke the "H" key on your keyboard.  This keystroke command will bring up a "Select Objects" window, which will allow you to select "Ellipse02" from the list of objects in the gmax scene.  This command is particularly useful when you are working with objects that are difficult to select manually from the viewports.  Click on "Ellipse02" in the object list, and then click on "Select" to select "Ellipse02."
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/ow_tiobe_sb/gmax_spline_modelling_tutorial/pic15.jpg)

5. Still using the "Select and Move" tool, center the move gizmo over the now selected "Ellipse02" and left-click and drag the object upward a very short distance.  This ellipse will serve as the bottom of the hat's pipe and will provide the basis for the hat band.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/ow_tiobe_sb/gmax_spline_modelling_tutorial/pic16.jpg)

6. Click on the "Select Object" tool icon on the icon bar.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/ow_tiobe_sb/gmax_spline_modelling_tutorial/pic17.jpg)

7. Click and drag a rectangle in the "Front" viewport around all three ellipses.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/ow_tiobe_sb/gmax_spline_modelling_tutorial/pic18.jpg)

8. Right-click to pull up the quad menu.  Select "Convert To:" and choose "Convert to Editable Spline."  Doing so will give us a number of integral spline modelling options.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/ow_tiobe_sb/gmax_spline_modelling_tutorial/pic19.jpg)

9. Select "Ellipse01" at the bottom of the "Front" viewport using the "Select Object" tool.  Left-click on the "Modify" tab on the command window.  Scroll the right scrollbar down in the sub-window to locate the "Geometry" options section.  Click on "Attach Mult." button.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/ow_tiobe_sb/gmax_spline_modelling_tutorial/pic20.jpg)

10. A window that strongly resembles the "Select Objects" window will open.  Click on the "All" button below the object list to select the two remaining ellipses, and then click on "Attach."  This action will conjoin the three ellipses into a single entity.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/ow_tiobe_sb/gmax_spline_modelling_tutorial/pic21.jpg)

Part IV: Constructing the Hat

I know what you are thinking: This still does not look like much of a hat.  You mind is soon about to change. 

1. Click on the modifiers drop-down menu on the "Modify" tab and select "CrossSection."
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/ow_tiobe_sb/gmax_spline_modelling_tutorial/pic22.jpg)

2. Ah!  'Tis an improvement, no?  gmax has used the "CrossSection" modifier to interpolate points and lines between these editable splines to form the rough shape of a top hat.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/ow_tiobe_sb/gmax_spline_modelling_tutorial/pic23.jpg)

3. This hat looks a bit too blocky for the Bunburyist's tastes.  Let's give it more contour.  With the "CrossSection" modifier selected in the stack, tick the radio button next to "Smooth" in the "Parameters" sub-window.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/ow_tiobe_sb/gmax_spline_modelling_tutorial/pic24.jpg)

4. Smooooooooth...
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/ow_tiobe_sb/gmax_spline_modelling_tutorial/pic25.jpg)

5. This framework is all fine and good, but the hat truly needs surface (without depth--no dandy traffics in depth ;)).  Open the modifier drop-down menu again and select "Surface" from the "Patch/Spline Editing" modifiers.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/ow_tiobe_sb/gmax_spline_modelling_tutorial/pic26.jpg)

6. Oooooooooh...The "Surface" modifier interpolates the model's surface using the cross-sectioned splines as a guide.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/ow_tiobe_sb/gmax_spline_modelling_tutorial/pic27.jpg)

7. This modifier, by default, added a tad too much detail to this object for the purposes of the Freedom Force game engine.  Let's scale back that smoothing detail to "2" steps under the "Patch Topology" field of the "Surface" sub-window.  You should also tick "Flip Normals" (which will turn the currently inside-out hat right-side out) and "Remove Interior Patches."
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/ow_tiobe_sb/gmax_spline_modelling_tutorial/pic28.jpg)

8. To truly see the result of this action in the "Front" viewport, right-click on the word "Front" in the viewport and choose "Smooth and Highlight" from the pop-up window to change how the object is rendered in that viewport.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/ow_tiobe_sb/gmax_spline_modelling_tutorial/pic29.jpg)

9. Very nice!  Not bad for three little splines and a few modifiers, eh what?
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/ow_tiobe_sb/gmax_spline_modelling_tutorial/pic30.jpg)

10. Another prospect from the "Perspective" (three-quarter view) viewport.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/ow_tiobe_sb/gmax_spline_modelling_tutorial/pic31.jpg)

11. To give the hat a 3D hat band, let's convert the editable splines and work with selected polygons.  First, right-click on the word "Front" in the "Front" viewport and select "Edged Faces" from the pop-up menu.  This will help us distinguished parts of the mesh while it is smooth-rendered.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/ow_tiobe_sb/gmax_spline_modelling_tutorial/pic32.jpg)

12. With the hat object selected, right-click and choose "Convert To:" from the quad menu, then select "Convert to Editable Mesh."
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/ow_tiobe_sb/gmax_spline_modelling_tutorial/pic33.jpg)

13. Click on the "+" sign next to "Editable Mesh" in the stack and click on the polygon sub-object.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/ow_tiobe_sb/gmax_spline_modelling_tutorial/pic34.jpg)

14. Using the "Select Object" tool, click and drag a rectangle that crosses the level of polygons situated just above the brim of the hat.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/ow_tiobe_sb/gmax_spline_modelling_tutorial/pic35.jpg)

15. Notice that these selected polygons now appear in red outline.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/ow_tiobe_sb/gmax_spline_modelling_tutorial/pic36.jpg)

16. Scroll the right scrollbar in the polygon sub-window down to find the "Extrude" button.  Make certain that you tick the radio button next to "Local" before proceeding.  Then click on the "Extrude" button and type "0.05m" into the text field.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/ow_tiobe_sb/gmax_spline_modelling_tutorial/pic37.jpg)

17. Voila!  A chapeau fit for a dandy!
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v243/ow_tiobe_sb/gmax_spline_modelling_tutorial/pic38.jpg)

Finis.[/spoiler]

ow_tiobe_sb
Phantom Bunburyist and The Prat in the Hat

I allow myself to post this link
http://mroger.net/ (http://mroger.net/)
i think someone talk about it but since it was not here...basically these are some of the best tutorial you can find (at least, according to my 3dsmax and maya teachers). oh, and it's in french.

i have just a question with that: what are the engine limitations? how many poly for a character? and for building and wieldable/throwable objects? what's the maximum texture size?
(the thing is that i finally realize that i could use my 3d knowledge to, you know, actually DO 3d stuff...)

IPS asked me about the lighting I use on my GL characters and really you just go by the Dynamic Lighting tutorial in the FFvTR Art Docs.

QuoteDynamic Lighting


Light Types and Max



The only light type that the Freedom Force engine will recognize is omni (or point) lights.  These lights brighten the area around them equally in all directions, unlike spotlights.



To control the omni lights in 3D Studio Max:



   1. Set the decay type to Inverse.  Inverse squared decay is not recognized in FF.
   2. Click "use" and "show" under Far Attenuation.  Set the start to 0.0.  Use the End variable to control the size of the light's radius.
   3. Click the "diffuse" checkbox under affected surfaces.
   4. If you would like a more pronounced effect from the light, use the "multiplier" value under the Intensity/Color/Attenuation section.  Be careful with this though because values higher than 5.0 can cause strange problems with objects that are near the edge of the light's radius.



You will notice that the light you have just created doesn't do anything to the visual representation of the object in Max. Now export your object to a NIF file (make sure lights checkbox is on) and check the final result in the game.

Here's the good news: you can export dynamic lights with the FF1 exporters - I just checked and it works.   :P

A tutorial on rigging characters, mainly the complex areas:

Rigging complex joints (http://www.computerarts.co.uk/tutorials/3d__and__animation/rigging_complex_joints) - not usable for 3dMax

[edit]Found orginial tutorials, will post in next few days along with assests for it.

Quote from: Deaths Jester on October 18, 2008, 08:45:55 AM
A tutorial on rigging characters, mainly the complex areas:

Rigging complex joints (http://www.computerarts.co.uk/tutorials/3d__and__animation/rigging_complex_joints)

Erm... this is for Animation:Master, a completely different program. I'm not certain at all it would apply to 3DS Max in any way.

EDIT: Yeah, looking at it, this would not help 3DS Max at all. Sorry, DJ

Tutorial on adding Bumpmaps via NifSkope:
http://tommyboymeshes.freedomforceforever.com/BumpmapTutorial.html

Okay found the actual rigging tutorial I had been lookin gofr however it's only Part 1 which is pretty much the essentials for rigging, no extra heavy work here.  Anyways, I also included the source files for the tutorial with it in a Rar file, and ye can find it here (http://home.graffiti.net/deathsjester/rigging.rar).